PineSol?

Simple Green spray cleaner works, although you'll want to use a toothbrush after an overnight soak (I hoard used toothbrushes for all sorts of cleaning).

E

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 11:56 AM Jim Catchpole - jlcatchpole at googlemail.com (via tml list) <xxxxxx@simplelists.com> wrote:
If these are from Foreven, then they are in Fine Detail Plastic, so I wouldn't use brake fluid on them, let alone acetone.

This side of the Atlantic the recommended cleaner for those with a little patience and who prefer less agressive cleaners is Dettol (the basic one with pine oil in, not any of the others). I'm pretty sure it's safe for use on plastics, at least for short periods of time. Of course, Dettol is a little harder to get hold of of late...

On 10/08/2020 19:00, xxxxxx@gmail.com wrote:
There are hideously expensive (yet marvelous) paints like Vallejo paints but honestly, I and some friends that paint have found that some lines of acrylic craft paint at your local craft store (here we go to Michaels) can be inexpensive and work well. I can't recall the brand of craft paints I use (not sure where my paints are right now) but they were in larger containers (vs. the dinky ones the 'fancy' paints come in) for a smaller price per container. 

Brushes, on the other hand... don't get the cheapest ones (try to assess if they'll shed strands/hairs easily.... that's not useful while painting). I like sable. They cost a bit, but I don't think you should spend more than about 7 UKP for a good brush. I don't think you should pay less thank about 3 UKP though either. Exception: Having some larger brushes with fan shapes or other larger head shapes for drybrushing (because that uses so little paint and is hard on brushes) is important and you can generally use brushes closer to the lowest end of the spectrum (say one notch up). For detail work, a few good sable brushes are handy. 

There's some awesome camo you can paint for vehicles using a fairly course sponge with small chunks pulled out (STEP 1: Monocolour base with brush or spray, Step 2: Sponge and dab with colour (practice on a bit of paper to see what that will look like with differing amounts of paint and pressure first), Step 3: New colour.... and in no time, you've painted a camo pattern that's not bad...). 

Look for some Artists Medium. It's kind of a colourless paint (though you don't paint with it as such). Craft paints often come in cheap plastic bottles (and even some model paints have crappy lids). I've had some paints in my collection for 25 years and they still work. Others I've had dry out in a few years. One way to slow that is every 6 months, open them up briefly, pop in a wee bit of artists's medium, and shake them/mix them then recap. Gives longevity to your paint collection. 

Anyway, youtube has a lot of videos, but if you are ever curious, let me know. I have a buddy who has been painting minis for a home business for a long time too and I can bug him for info if required. 

Good luck. 

And get a good primer. I like Armoury grey (black darkens other colours painted over, white lightens) but in UK, you might find a good GW primer or ask at a local minis store (or just ask your figure vendor... they've painted a few...). 

Oh, and remember: There are two options with a paint job you don't like: Repaint (works with thin enough paints without too many layers otherwise detail is lost) or (if it is a white metal figure vs plastic or resin), you can just pop it in a mason jar full of either brake fluid or (if you really want effective and can live with 'must follow Materials Safety Data Sheets because unhealthy contents), you can use full fledged acetone (5% acetone is nail polish remover, 100% is the right gloves and don't splash it around). Acetone will also (with assembled white metal minis) disassemble any epoxy joins... I left a squad of 25mms in acetone for a few weeks and I didn't even find anything I recognized as the paint or the resin residue afterwards... and a rinse with water and the figures were ready to reprime and repaint. Just don't pour acetone down the loo or the sink. It's a hazmat so when you decide you've had enough, dispose. And the container you store it in ought to be glass and have a tight fitting lid without a sealer ring.... I put it in one with a sealer ring and it *ate the sealer ring*. It's strong stuff. Also not sure you want it in your house (garage or maybe shed better). Brake fluid and some scrubbing with a toothbrush on metal figs can take most of paint of without being as hazardous.

TomB

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 1:21 PM Timothy Collinson - timothy.collinson at port.ac.uk (via tml list) <xxxxxx@simplelists.com> wrote:

Just a note to everyone to say thank for the responses on the subject of painting miniatures.

You've very kindly waaaay overestimated my knowledge (wash?  parchment?  primer?)  :-)

However, with links and words and clues to follow, you've been brilliant at giving me a way forward if decide I can face it.  It probably wouldn't be that expensive to try one and fail, so perhaps the obvious next step is stop stressing about colour/pattern and find a UK source of the paints that have been suggested.

Thank you again.  If I do have a go, I'll let you know.

tc



Virus-free. www.avast.com

On Sat, 8 Aug 2020 at 03:10, <xxxxxx@gmail.com> wrote:
I prefer to use 'magic wash' but I'm not sure I can still get the most important ingredient: Clear liquid Future floor polish.
https://paizo.com/threads/rzs2othj?Future-Floor-Polish-the-mini-painters-best (I hear it now has a Pledge name as Future was bought by pledge)

The poster Fitzwalrus seems to have about the recipe I remember - 3 or 4 water to 1 of Future. Also, not mentioned but quite useful: 1 or 2 drops of normal (not the silky stuff, the clear stuff) dish detergent (it helps the mix to flow where you want it to in crevasses (and crevices) while mostly leaving little on raised areas - something of a surfactant.

Here's another with a bunch of different options based on country:

Another technique if you've never tried it that I wholly recommend: The Wet Pallete painting technique

Use a sheet of baker's parchment over a bit of water in a small tray (or over a fairly wet paper towel) and then pour a bit of each paint colour you wish to use on the parchment. The parchment paper is *partly* permissible to water but it is slow and that keeps your paints from drying while you paint (and you can mix colours on the palette).

I wish I had my painted Type S'es and others to show off. They're in storage at a friend's place. Maybe I'll get them back when next I see him in forms other than virtual.

TomB

On Fri, Aug 7, 2020 at 5:57 PM Ethan McKinney <xxxxxx@gmail.com> wrote:
You definitely need to wash them carefully, probably with a soft toothbrush. Then prime; several coats may be needed to cover striations.

Of course, Ad Astra Games produces licensed metal warship miniatures, plus a few adventure-scale at 1:2500. https://www.adastragames.com/products?category=Traveller

E

On Fri, Aug 7, 2020 at 2:38 PM James Catchpole - jlcatchpole at googlemail.com (via tml list) <xxxxxx@simplelists.com> wrote:
If you are unsure about painting them, I would suggest giving one a grey base coat and an ink wash and see if that is sufficient.

I don't have any experience painting Fine Detail Plastic myself, but I do note that the shapeways support suggests soaking it in hot water and washing up liquid before starting, and a quick search suggests using acrylic paints, not enamel (which would be my preference anyway).

On Fri, 7 Aug 2020 21:28 Timothy Collinson - timothy.collinson at port.ac.uk (via tml list), <xxxxxx@simplelists.com> wrote:
Just arrived today from Foreven Shipyard Traveller Starship Miniatures (via Shapeways) are these delights:


I'm saving up for the rest and believe a lab ship might be on the design blocks.

Just trying to decide whether I dare trying to learn to paint them (with DEX 3), but fear I'll just make a mess.

Great to see the March Harrier (and often forgotten launch).  

Now.... it would be a pity to have these and not run a combat.... mwah hah hah!


tc

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Timothy Collinson
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University of Portsmouth
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